Francesca Ruffini and Dušan Paunovic Unveil Personal, Color‑Focused Spring 2027 Collections
Ruffini’s collection is a self‑portrait of her wardrobe, while Paunovic’s line emphasizes colour and poetic fabrics.
By Felo News Desk · Published
Francesca Ruffini and Dušan Paunovic presented their Spring 2027 ready‑to‑wear collections on the same day, each drawing on personal archives and a restrained colour palette. Ruffini’s show was described as a “self‑portrait” of her wardrobe, with 24 pieces distilled into a small, cohesive line that favoured ivory, deep green, blue and a powdery shirtmaker’s blue. Paunovic, meanwhile, focused on colour and Japanese‑inspired fabrics, naming shades such as Under the Snow, Pink Salt, Underground and Midnight.
Ruffini’s Personal Archive
Ruffini said she went back through 24 collections and kept only what still felt uniquely hers. The result was a small range of five tops and two bottoms that could be recombined like a personal uniform. The collection retained key elements such as a white version of her signature pajamas, now with green twill piping inlaid rather than applied, and a subtly narrowed cuff shaped with an internal button. Prints were pared down, with a leaf motif enlarged to a monumental scale and a rose bouquet stripped of colour and rebuilt in tonal shades.
Paunovic’s Colour and Fabric Focus
Paunovic’s collection was described as “almost monastic” in its commitment to a personal aesthetic. He used poetic Japanese fabrics in shades called Under the Snow, Pink Salt, Underground and Midnight. Featherweight dusters featured lateral slits for extra breeze, bias‑cut trousers required five metres of cloth, and knits were double‑layered. Most garments were fastened with knots rather than buttons, as Paunovic said buttons “destroy everything.” The showroom also displayed a cabinet of curiosities, including organic‑looking ceramics by Carlo Zauli and ancient artefacts.
Design Philosophy
Both designers emphasised a disciplined approach to their work. Ruffini’s editing was “plainly apparent,” with a focus on reducing prints and keeping only the most essential pieces. Paunovic’s obsession with a single aesthetic was described as “eccentric” but “highly personal.” Both shows highlighted a resistance to fleeting trends and a preference for timeless, well‑made garments.
Key facts
- Ruffini’s collection consists of five tops and two bottoms that can be recombined (vogue.com)
- Paunovic’s collection uses Japanese‑inspired fabrics named Under the Snow, Pink Salt, Underground and Midnight (vogue.com)
- Ruffini’s wardrobe is dominated by ivory, deep green, blue and a powdery shirtmaker’s blue (vogue.com)
- Paunovic fastens most garments with knots instead of buttons (vogue.com)
Background
Both designers have previously shown a preference for personal archives and a restrained aesthetic in earlier Felo News coverage of Spring 2027 collections.
Timeline
- 2026-09-18 — Stefan Cooke unveiled his Spring 2027 collection
- 2026-09-20 — Emilia Wickstead presented her Spring 2027 collection
- 2026-09-25 — JJ Martin debuted La DoubleJ Spring 2027 collection
Why it matters
The shows illustrate how contemporary designers are revisiting personal archives and minimalist palettes to create distinct, trend‑resistant collections.
What happens next
No further events have been announced by either designer at this time.
