Emilia Wickstead Spring 2027 Collection Inspired by Lenore Krasner
Emilia Wickstead’s Spring 2027 collection draws on the work of 1940s artist Lenore Krasner, featuring tweed, feather accents, and playful prints. Presented as a film in her Sloane Street showroom, the line blends classic fit‑and‑flare silhouettes with contemporary details, offering versatile pieces…
By Felo News Desk · Published
Emilia Wickstead’s Spring 2027 collection was unveiled not on a traditional runway but through a cinematic presentation in her Sloane Street showroom. The film, a collaborative effort with London restaurateur Jeremy King, showcased the garments in a series of pastel‑colored rooms, each shifting backdrop echoing the palette of the pieces on display.
From Runway to Reel
During last season’s show, Wickstead confided in her daughter that she wanted a change. The result was a film that moves beyond the catwalk, allowing viewers to see how the clothing can be lived with and enjoyed in everyday settings. King, known for curating immersive dining experiences, provided snacks and martinis from his new restaurant, Simpsons on the Strand, adding a sensory layer to the event.
The film begins with painters finishing the set, while seamstresses add final touches to a peppermint‑striped, strapless fit‑and‑flare gown adorned with a delicate floral print and tulle overlay. The first model then strides through the rooms in a muted pink striped shirt and knit, her quick steps mirroring the pace of a busy day. As she walks, the background colors shift from lavender to powder blue, pale green to lemon yellow, subtly recontextualizing the garments’ hues.
Lenore Krasner: The Muse Behind the Line
Wickstead’s inspiration for this season is Lenore ‘Lee’ Krasner, a 1940s American abstract expressionist and the wife of Jackson Pollock. The designer emphasized that her focus is on Krasner herself, celebrating women who historically received less recognition. "I like to celebrate women who should have been talked about more," Wickstead said, underscoring her intent to honor Krasner’s artistic legacy.
The collection reflects Krasner’s penchant for reinvention. Fit‑and‑flare dresses and architectural necklines are subtly reworked, featuring asymmetrical bibs that can be folded or tied to adjust the neckline. Frayed silk chiffon trims give garments an undone, painterly feel, echoing Krasner’s desire to keep her work slightly unraveled. A light cotton, painterly tweed—woven with beige, pink, and yellow—appears across skirts, trousers, and dresses, mirroring the colors of Krasner’s 1956 painting, Prophecy.
Innovations in Fabric and Detail
For the first time in a Wickstead spring collection, tweed panels are incorporated into black chiffon tops and dresses, while chiffon pleat inlays appear in tweed skirts and viscose dresses, creating a breezier, cooler feel suitable for warmer summer days. Feather accents also debut, ranging from a removable thick feather trim on a bias‑cut tweed mini‑dress‑cum‑tunic to intricate feather flowers embroidered onto a yellow A‑line minidress and a standout black gown in viscose moiret.
Hand‑woven pieces, sometimes finished with feather trims that subtly obscure the face, are crafted in the studio, adding a bespoke touch. The fit‑and‑flare gowns, available in floral or pink stripe, even feature pockets described as “for paintbrushes,” a playful nod to the creative spirit of the line’s muse.
Versatility for a High‑Society Wardrobe
Wickstead balances elegance with practicality. Oversized knits are layered over loose, striped cotton artist shirts, and apron dresses can hang loose or be cinched at the waist. "I feel like Lee might have worn this to the studio," Wickstead mused, pointing to a pink and blue striped knit and a gray oversized gilet adorned with daisy prints on the pockets and back. By adjusting necklines, waistlines, and layering prints, the collection offers fresh ways to wear classic Wickstead silhouettes, ensuring that customers can derive lasting value from each piece.
What’s Next for Wickstead?
While the film provides a snapshot of the Spring 2027 line, Wickstead plans to make these garments available through her online store and select boutiques. The collaboration with Jeremy King hints at future multimedia presentations that blend fashion, food, and art. As the brand continues to explore new textures and motifs, fans can anticipate more innovative releases that honor artistic heritage while maintaining Wickstead’s signature style.
Overall, the collection showcases how a designer can honor historical figures while crafting contemporary, wearable fashion that resonates with modern audiences.
Key facts
- Film‑style presentation in Sloane Street showroom
- Lenore Krasner as the artistic muse
- Introduction of tweed and feather accents
- Versatile, re‑configurable fit‑and‑flare silhouettes
- Collaboration with Jeremy King for a multisensory experience
Why it matters
The collection demonstrates how contemporary designers can weave historical art into modern fashion, offering both aesthetic depth and practical versatility for consumers.
Frequently asked questions
What made this collection different from previous ones?
Unlike traditional runway shows, this collection was presented as a film in a showroom, featuring real‑life settings and a collaboration with restaurateur Jeremy King.
Which fabrics were introduced this season?
The line introduced painterly tweed, feather trims, and chiffon pleat inlays, marking first-time uses of tweed in a Wickstead spring collection.
Who is Lenore Krasner?
Lenore Krasner was a 1940s American abstract expressionist artist and the wife of Jackson Pollock, celebrated here for her creative reinvention.
Sources
- [1] vogue.com — originally reported as “Emilia Wickstead Spring 2027 Ready-to-Wear Collection”
