Christopher Kane Returns to Mulberry in Stunning SS27 Show
Christopher Kane returned to Mulberry’s London Fashion Week debut after a 2023 label shutdown, delivering a retro‑futuristic collection that fused his signature leather cuts with the brand’s iconic Bayswater bag. The show was met with standing ovations and praised by industry insiders for its sharp…
By Felo News Desk · Published
On Sunday afternoon, the Queen Elizabeth II Centre in London became a stage for a moment that felt both nostalgic and forward‑looking. Christopher Kane, the Scottish designer who had closed his eponymous house in 2023, stepped onto the Mulberry runway for the first time since 2017. The audience erupted in applause, with a whole section giving a standing ovation as the collection titled City Town Country unfolded.
Re‑introducing a British Icon
Mulberry, the storied British leather goods house, had struggled in recent years and had not appeared at London Fashion Week for four seasons. In January, former Ganni CEO Andrea Baldo appointed Kane as creative director with the mandate to turn the brand around. Baldo said after the show, "This has been a pivotal and joyous moment for Mulberry. Christopher’s vision really speaks to the codes of the house while moving the brand into a new era."
Kane himself reflected on the occasion, telling Vogue critic Sarah Mower, "It feels so good to be back. Mulberry is a British brand with a great story behind it. When I got the offer, my sister Tammy and I were like: we can do something really great here."
Design Language: Leather, Geometry, and the Bayswater Legacy
The collection leaned heavily on leather, a material that has long been central to Mulberry’s identity. Kane’s hallmark square‑necked minidresses appeared in full‑leather form, featuring geometric cutouts that echoed the lines of the iconic Bayswater bag. These cutouts revealed a hint of skin, adding a daring edge to the traditionally understated silhouettes.
Repetition was a key theme, as Kane noted backstage, "Repetition for me is so important. It instills a strong message." The geometric motif appeared across a range of colors and styles, creating a cohesive visual narrative that tied the garments together.
Accessories That Speak
Accessories took center stage, with monochromatic looks designed to let the bags shine. The Bayswater bag returned in its original form and in new hues, while a supersized version in croc‑effect black leather paired with a matching coat. Kane also unveiled the asymmetrical axe bag in white leather and the chop, a smaller curved shoulder bag, both inspired by the idea of cutting away at a Mulberry tree to promote new growth.
Footwear was another highlight. Pointed court shoes and loafers featured a severe metal heel shaped like an axe, a motif that echoed the brand’s heritage and Kane’s design language. The shoes were described by industry insiders as both sharp and commercially viable.
Industry Reaction: A Season‑Defining Show
- Hamish Bowles (World of Interiors, Vogue) called the show "marvelous and refreshing," noting its totalitarian approach and 60s Cardin‑ish vibe.
- Osman Ahmed (editor and consultant) praised the modern, precise design and the genius use of the Bayswater flap.
- Lulu Kennedy (Fashion East) highlighted the single vision and progressive yet respectful take on Mulberry.
- Caroline Issa (Tank) admired the commercial appeal of Kane’s conceptual ideas.
- Bosse Myhr (Selfridges) appreciated the square cutout pieces and the clear line that would resonate with customers.
- Olivia Singer (Prototype) noted the linear graphicism and subcultural nods to school uniforms and football casuals.
- Charles Jeffrey (designer) praised the clean palette, fresh feel, and the axe motif as a symbol of the brand’s direction.
- Laura Hawkins (British Vogue) found the black croc leather pieces compelling, blending heritage craftsmanship with Kane’s subversive streak.
- Archie Grant (stylist) expressed excitement for the parkas and the continuation of Kane’s signature aesthetics.
- Kai Isaiah Jamal (model) highlighted the balance between sexy and functional, especially the giant black croc bag.
- Julia Hobbs (British Vogue) described the collection as wearable and elevated, with pieces like the cropped bomber jacket and 60s‑tinged shift dresses poised to become spring staples.
- Karen Binns (10 Magazine) called the move a smart one, noting how Kane turned the heritage of the bag into a full‑blown collection.
- Tess McMillan (model) praised the imaginative essence and perfectly defined silhouettes.
What’s Next for Mulberry?
With Kane’s creative direction and Baldo’s strategic leadership, Mulberry is poised to re‑establish itself as a leading British fashion house. The brand will likely continue to blend its heritage leather craftsmanship with Kane’s bold, geometric designs, aiming to capture both traditional customers and a new, younger audience. The next season’s shows and product releases will be closely watched by industry insiders and fashion enthusiasts alike.
Key facts
- Christopher Kane returns to Mulberry after a 2023 label shutdown
- The SS27 collection fuses Kane’s leather cuts with Mulberry’s iconic Bayswater bag
- Industry insiders praised the show as modern, sharp, and commercially viable
- Accessories, especially the axe‑shaped heel loafers, highlight brand heritage
- Mulberry aims to blend heritage with Kane’s bold design for a fresh brand direction
Why it matters
Kane’s return signals a revitalisation of a beloved British heritage brand, blending classic craftsmanship with contemporary design—a move that could reshape the luxury leather market.
Frequently asked questions
What was the theme of Christopher Kane’s Mulberry SS27 collection?
The collection, titled City Town Country, focused on geometric leather cuts, the iconic Bayswater bag motif, and bold accessories such as axe‑shaped heel loafers.
Who appointed Christopher Kane as Mulberry’s creative director?
Former Ganni CEO Andrea Baldo appointed Kane earlier this year to turn around the ailing British brand.
How did the audience react to the show?
The show was met with standing ovations and enthusiastic applause, indicating a strong positive reception.
Sources
- [1] vogue.com — originally reported as “‘Rather Marvelous and Refreshing’: First Reactions to Christopher Kane’s Mulberry”
