Squid ink tomato pasta and honey and fig semifreddo: Chris Leach’s Italian recipes for the end of summer
Chef Chris Leach shares two low‑effort yet striking dishes: squid ink spaghetti with anchovy tomato sauce and a honey‑thyme fig semifreddo. Both recipes capitalize on seasonal ingredients and can be prepared quickly, making them ideal for busy evenings or relaxed Sunday lunches.
As the weather cools, cooking can feel like a chore. Chef and co‑founder of London restaurant Manteca, Chris Leach, offers two dishes that keep preparation simple while delivering bold flavors. The first is squid ink spaghetti with anchovy‑tomato sauce, finished with a crunchy pangrattato. The second is a honey‑thyme fig semifreddo that showcases the sweetness of ripe figs. Both recipes use ingredients that are at their peak in late summer and early autumn, making them perfect for a relaxed meal at home.
Squid Ink Spaghetti with Anchovy Tomato Sauce
This dish is a visual and culinary contrast: black pasta, bright red tomatoes, and golden breadcrumbs. The sauce is built while the pasta cooks, so the whole meal is ready in about 30 minutes. A few key steps give the dish depth and texture.
- Pangrattato (Breadcrumb Crunch) – Start by turning day‑old sourdough or country bread into coarse crumbs. Toast the crumbs in olive oil with sliced garlic and thyme until they’re golden and crisp. Season lightly with sea salt and black pepper, then set aside to cool.
- Spaghetti – Boil 400 g of squid ink spaghetti in well‑salted water until al dente. Reserve a splash of the pasta water for later.
- Tomato‑Anchovy Sauce – In a large pan, gently heat olive oil and garlic until fragrant. Add whole cherry tomatoes and cook until they start to burst. Stir in anchovy fillets, letting them dissolve into the oil. Pour in 75 ml of dry white wine and reduce by half. Toss the cooked spaghetti into the pan, adding a splash of pasta water to loosen the sauce.
- Finish – Add lemon zest, a squeeze of lemon juice, and chopped flat‑leaf parsley. Season with black pepper and more lemon if needed. Serve each bowl topped with 50 g of pangrattato and a drizzle of extra‑virgin olive oil.
Beyond the striking colors, the anchovies provide umami that balances the acidity of the tomatoes, while the squid ink gives the pasta a subtle briny note. The pangrattato adds a satisfying crunch that contrasts the silky sauce.
Honey‑Thyme Fig Semifreddo
When figs are at their sweetest, they can elevate a dessert to something almost celebratory. Leach’s semifreddo is a layered, marbled treat that is both visually stunning and light on the kitchen. The recipe requires a few steps, but the result is a dessert that can be prepared in advance and served at room temperature.
- Thyme‑Infused Cream – Warm 300 ml of double cream with three sprigs of fresh thyme until just below boiling. Remove from heat, stir in lemon zest, and let infuse for 20–30 minutes. Strain, chill, and whip to soft peaks.
- Honey Sabayon – Whisk three egg yolks, 75 g of chestnut honey, and a pinch of sea salt in a heat‑proof bowl set over simmering water until the mixture thickens and triples in volume. Fold in 20 g of browned butter if desired.
- Fig Ripple – Warm 200 g of fig jam with a tablespoon of aged balsamic vinegar and a splash of water until smooth. Cool completely.
- Assembly – Line a loaf tin with parchment. Spoon a third of the whipped cream into the tin, drizzle with fig ripple, and gently swirl with a knife. Repeat two more times, finishing with a final swirl. Cover with parchment and freeze for at least eight hours.
- Serving – Thaw the semifreddo for 10–15 minutes before slicing. Arrange fresh fig halves around each slice, drizzle with warm honey, and sprinkle with toasted poppy seeds, crushed fennel seeds, thyme leaves, and a pinch of flaky sea salt.
The result is a creamy, airy dessert with a marbled pattern of sweet fig and honey. The toasted seeds add texture, while the thyme provides a subtle herbal note that complements the figs’ natural sweetness.
Why These Recipes Matter
Both dishes exemplify how to make the most of seasonal produce without spending hours in the kitchen. By focusing on flavor pairings—anchovies with tomatoes, figs with honey, and thyme with cream—Leach creates meals that are both comforting and sophisticated.
What’s Next?
These recipes can be adapted for larger gatherings or paired with simple sides like a green salad or roasted vegetables. The spaghetti can be served with a light vinaigrette, while the semifreddo works well alongside a chilled white wine or sparkling rosé.
Why it matters
They show how to craft elegant, seasonal meals that are quick to prepare, making sophisticated dining accessible for everyday life.
Key points
- Low‑effort dishes that use late‑summer ingredients
- Squid ink pasta offers a striking visual contrast
- Anchovy‑tomato sauce balances acidity with umami
- Fig semifreddo showcases figs at their peak sweetness
- Both recipes can be prepped ahead for busy schedules
Frequently asked questions
Can I use fresh bread for the pangrattato?
Yes, fresh bread can be used, but it may need to be toasted longer to achieve the same crispness.
What if I don’t have a double cream?
You can substitute half‑and‑half or a mix of milk and cream, but the texture may be slightly lighter.
How long does the semifreddo stay in the freezer?
It can be kept for up to two weeks; just thaw it 10–15 minutes before serving.
