Route des Vacances: a gastronomic driving holiday from Paris to the Mediterranean
The RN7, once a bustling holiday route, is experiencing a renaissance as travelers seek slow, culinary‑rich journeys. From restored 1950s petrol stations to Michelin‑starred stops, the road offers a blend of history, gastronomy, and scenic change.
The RN7, stretching 996 km from Paris to Menton on the Côte d’Azur, has long been a symbol of French vacances. In the 1930s, a government law granting paid holiday time spurred northerners to chase the Mediterranean sun, turning the route into a holiday artery. Today, a new wave of slow‑travel enthusiasts is rediscovering its charm, blending nostalgia with culinary adventure.
From Paris to the Forest of Fontainebleau
My trip began in the heart of Paris, near Place d’Italie, on a crisp September morning. A rented Citroën offered comfort, but the memory of a 1950s 2CV, restored by vintage‑car enthusiast Thierry Doillon, sparked a sense of adventure. Thierry had spent years restoring a 1950s petrol station on the RN7, a testament to the road’s once‑busy past. The first stop was Barbizon, a village in the Fontainebleau forest that attracted 18th‑century artists seeking inspiration in its wooded paths.
Along the way, the landscape shifted from the wide boulevards of Paris to the quiet, tree‑lined lanes of rural France. The RN7’s simple red‑and‑white distance markers replaced the flashy billboards of modern highways, offering a more authentic experience. The route’s history is also reflected in its ghost signs and the occasional Relais‑Routier restaurant, a nod to the roadside cafés of the 1950s.
Historic Towns and Gastronomic Highlights
Continuing south, I passed through riverside towns such as Charité‑sur‑Loire and Nevers, before arriving at the Hôtel de Paris in Moulins. This historic hotel, once a favorite of Coco Chanel and Edith Piaf, hosted two daily lunch sittings in the 1950s—one for southbound travelers and another for those heading north from Lyon and the Riviera.
In La Pacaudière, I visited Le Petit Louvre, a coaching inn that has served various roles since the 1500s, from trading post to school. Nearby Lapalisse hosts a biennial traffic‑jam festival called Embouteillage, celebrating the nostalgic bottlenecks of the 1960s. These small towns illustrate how the RN7 has been a living corridor of commerce and culture for centuries.
Roanne, a lesser‑known culinary gem, offered a taste of French gastronomy. I dined at Le Central, a restaurant on the RN7 that serves dishes inspired by the region’s culinary heritage. The meal began with a fish broth amuse‑bouche, followed by white fish with confit peppers, and concluded with a volcanic île flottante named Mont Fuji. The experience highlighted the route’s connection to the Michelin Guide and its role in promoting regional chefs such as Michel Troisgros.
Restored Heritage and Artisan Food
One of the most striking sights was the Ozo petrol station, fully restored by Thierry and his friends. The station’s original woman‑guardian, a “godmother” who lived in the kiosk, is a reminder of the roadside hospitality that once defined the RN7. From there, I drove into the Vallée de la Gastronomie, a central‑France region famed for its artisans, winemakers, and culinary traditions.
In St Symphorien‑de‑Lay, I met Pierre‑Yves at Maison Mure, a boulanger‑pâtissier‑chocolatier who created a cake shaped like the RN7 road sign. The next night was spent at Domaine de Clairefontaine, a boutique hotel and bistronomic restaurant that offers a quiet retreat after a day of travel.
Continuing south, I visited Tain‑l’Hermitage’s Citè du Chocolat museum and the Hermitage vineyards. Maison Chabran in Pont‑de‑l’Isère exemplified the family‑run hotels and restaurants that dot the RN7, each offering local specialties and a warm welcome.
Wine, History, and the Mediterranean
The journey’s culinary peak arrived in Châteauneuf‑du‑Pape, France’s first wine appellation. A night at the Michelin‑starred La Mère Germaine in the heart of the village provided a tasting experience that paired local wines with expertly prepared dishes. From there, the route led me past the Luberon’s rocky outcrops, Avignon’s papal palace, and Aix‑en‑Provence’s Cézanne celebration, before finally reaching the Mediterranean coast.
Fréjus, a town that blends ancient history with modern seaside charm, was my final stop. The hotel, l’Aréna, offered a view of the sea and a reminder of Napoleon’s 1799 stay during his journey from Egypt. The RN7’s transformation—from a bustling holiday route to a quiet, slow‑travel corridor—offers travelers a chance to experience France’s diverse landscapes, culinary traditions, and historic sites at a relaxed pace.
My out‑of‑season journey down the Route des Vacances proved that the RN7 is more than a road; it’s a living museum of French culture, gastronomy, and history, inviting travelers to explore the country’s heartland and its sunny coast.
What’s Next for the RN7?
While the RN7’s popularity has surged among slow‑travel enthusiasts, questions remain about how to balance preservation with increased traffic. Local authorities are exploring sustainable tourism initiatives to protect the route’s heritage sites and natural landscapes. For now, the RN7 continues to offer a unique blend of history, food, and scenery for those willing to take the road less travelled.
Why it matters
The RN7’s revival underscores the growing appeal of slow travel and culinary tourism, offering a sustainable alternative to high‑speed road trips while preserving France’s cultural heritage.
Key points
- The RN7 connects Paris to the Mediterranean over 996 km.
- Restored 1950s petrol stations and historic inns highlight the route’s heritage.
- The road is a culinary corridor, featuring Michelin‑starred restaurants and local food specialties.
- Slow‑travel enthusiasts are driving a renaissance of interest in the RN7.
- Local festivals and artisan producers add cultural depth to the journey.
Frequently asked questions
What is the RN7 known for?
The RN7, or Route Nationale 7, is a historic highway connecting Paris to the Côte d’Azur, famous for its scenic landscapes, culinary stops, and cultural heritage.
How long is the RN7?
The RN7 stretches approximately 996 km (619 miles) from Paris to Menton on the French Riviera.
What makes the RN7 popular with slow travelers?
Its quiet lanes, historic sites, restored petrol stations, and a wealth of regional cuisine make it ideal for a relaxed, immersive road trip.
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