“Textile Alchemy: The Art of Reiko Sudō and Nuno” Showcases 40 Years of the Artist’s Work
Reiko Sudō’s new LACMA exhibition showcases four decades of textile innovation, merging age‑old Japanese craft with cutting‑edge materials. The show highlights her atelier Nuno’s collaborative work, sustainable practices, and the artist’s unique blend of tradition and futurism.
Reiko Sudō’s long‑awaited retrospective, titled Textile Alchemy: The Art of Reiko Sudō and Nuno, opened at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) on September 20. The exhibition traces nearly forty years of Sudō’s experimentation with fabric, revealing how she marries centuries of Japanese textile heritage with contemporary technology and sustainability.
From Roppongi to Downtown Los Angeles
Sudō’s work first caught LACMA’s eye in May when the museum’s new Peter Zumthor‑designed building installed a vast curtain system. The semi‑transparent drapes, coated in a microscopic chrome layer, protect light‑sensitive pieces while softening the city view. The installation, which covers the floor‑to‑ceiling windows, offers visitors a preview of Sudō’s approach to light, texture, and space.
Now, the full exhibition brings the atmosphere of her Tokyo atelier to the West. Nuno, a 10‑person studio in Roppongi, has been Sudō’s creative hub since 1984. The LACMA show recreates the basement shop’s layout, allowing guests to walk through the same rooms where artisans and designers collaborate on textiles that push the boundaries of material science.
Innovation Rooted in Tradition
Sudō’s practice is built on two pillars: deep respect for traditional weaving and a relentless drive to innovate. Her pieces often incorporate unconventional elements—such as guinea fowl feathers in gossamer organza or metallic threads borrowed from automotive manufacturing—while preserving the tactile quality of silk, crepe, and other Japanese fabrics.
In works like Feather Organza, Sudō layers thin silk with feathered motifs, echoing Akita’s historic practice of weaving swan feathers into kimono jackets. Meanwhile, her Silk Crepe series transforms salt‑shrunk crepe into jellyfish‑like organzas by treating the fabric with gels and baking or steaming it, creating a new dimensionality that feels both organic and engineered.
Collaborations and Sustainability
Sudō’s commitment to sustainability extends beyond material choices. She partners with artisans across Japan, from the Hyodo Orimono weaving workshop to the silk‑producing city of Isesaki, ensuring that traditional techniques remain alive and economically viable. Her collaboration with the renowned Japanese designer Jun’ichi Arai, who co‑founded Nuno, exemplifies this partnership model.
Her advisory role at Muji, begun in 2016, further demonstrates her influence on mainstream design. Through Muji, Sudō has published four volumes surveying Japanese textiles, blending academic rigor with accessible design insights.
Personal History and Global Reach
Born in 1953 in Ishioka, Ibaraki, Sudō grew up in a family steeped in poetic and agricultural traditions. The concept of mottainai—a cultural admonition against waste—shaped her lifelong ethos of careful stewardship of materials and relationships.
Her career pivoted when, after a brief partnership with Arai ended, she took the reins of Nuno in 1984. A turning point came in 2001 when the Kyoto Art Center invited her to create a solo exhibition featuring two tearooms: one woven from rust‑dyed fabric, the other from biodegradable corn‑based plastic. The show drew international attention and cemented her reputation as a textile pioneer.
What Visitors Can Expect
At LACMA, the exhibition offers a multisensory experience. Visitors can touch bolts of fabric, feel the rustle of taffeta, and even hear the subtle sounds of silk moving. The gallery space is arranged to mirror Nuno’s original shop, with walls lined in bolts of cloth and displays of preparatory sketches and tools.
Highlights include bold, colorful kimonos woven in collaboration with Isesaki artisans, showcasing interlocking ikat patterns that have been celebrated since the Edo period. The show also features a selection of scarves and other garments available for purchase, allowing guests to take a piece of Sudō’s artistry home.
As the dialogue between fiber art and contemporary art grows richer—evidenced by recent exhibitions at Tate Modern and MoMA—Sudō’s work sits at the intersection of craft, technology, and environmental consciousness.
Future Directions
Sudō remains focused on creating textiles that move people emotionally while remaining functional. She continues to collaborate with architects, designers, and artisans worldwide, ensuring that her fabrics not only inspire but also serve practical purposes in fashion, furniture, and interior design.
With the LACMA exhibition, Sudō invites a new generation to witness the alchemy of fabric—a blend of past wisdom and future possibilities that redefines what textiles can be.
Why it matters
Reiko Sudō’s exhibition demonstrates how traditional Japanese textile techniques can evolve through technology and sustainability, offering a model for artists and designers worldwide to blend heritage with innovation.
Key points
- Reiko Sudō’s 40‑year textile journey is showcased at LACMA
- The exhibition recreates her Tokyo atelier Nuno’s basement shop
- Sudō blends traditional weaving with modern materials like chrome‑coated curtains
- She collaborates with artisans across Japan, promoting sustainability
- Her work has influenced mainstream brands like Muji and global art institutions
Frequently asked questions
What is the focus of Reiko Sudō’s new LACMA exhibition?
The exhibition highlights her 40‑year exploration of textile innovation, combining traditional Japanese weaving with contemporary technology and sustainable practices.
How does Sudō incorporate modern materials into her textiles?
She uses techniques such as chrome coatings on curtains, metallic threads from automotive manufacturing, and biodegradable plastics to create new textures and forms.
Where is Nuno located and what is its significance?
Nuno is a 10‑person textile atelier in Roppongi, Tokyo, founded in 1984, and serves as Sudō’s creative hub for collaboration with artisans and designers.
What role does sustainability play in Sudō’s work?
Sudō emphasizes material stewardship, collaborates with traditional weavers to preserve skills, and uses eco‑friendly processes like biodegradable plastics.
Can visitors purchase Sudō’s textiles at LACMA?
Yes, the exhibition includes scarves and other garments available for purchase, allowing guests to take home a piece of her work.
