Game On: the Swiss sports brand using hi-tech and chutzpah to challenge Nike and Adidas
Swiss brand On uses robot‑sprayed "LightSpray" technology to produce premium running shoes and is rapidly expanding through high‑profile collaborations and new retail locations. Backed by founders from McKinsey and a former Ironman champion, the company targets a larger share of the global sportswe…
Swiss sportswear label On is turning heads in the crowded footwear market by marrying cutting‑edge robotics with bold collaborations. The company’s flagship product, a £300 shoe built by a robot arm that sprays a near‑invisible "flying fibre" onto the shoe’s upper, exemplifies its ambition to compete with industry giants Nike and Adidas.
From a triathlete’s idea to a publicly traded challenger
On was founded in 2010 by former McKinsey consultants David Allemann and Caspar Coppetti, together with Swiss Ironman champion Olivier Bernhard. Bernhard wanted a shoe that could cushion the impact of long‑distance running while still delivering speed. The first prototype was a makeshift assembly of hose‑pipe sections glued to an old trainer. The trio invested roughly £600,000 of personal savings, ordered 1,200 pairs, and sold them at local running events before convincing specialist retailers to stock the brand.
In 2021 the company listed on the New York Stock Exchange, raising nearly $750 million and valuing the business at $8 billion. A year later the market cap doubled to $16 billion, and On projects sales of 30 million pairs this year, aiming for close to 3 billion Swiss francs (about £2.8 billion) in revenue.
Robot‑sprayed LightSpray technology and sustainability goals
The breakthrough that sets On apart is its LightSpray process. In 2019 a young designer, Johannes Voelchert, presented a concept inspired by a glue gun used for Halloween spider‑web decorations. On funded his research for a year, and today a team of hundreds from over 90 countries refines the method in Zurich. A nine‑robot cell can produce a Cloudboom Strike LS shoe in three minutes, using a single mile‑long filament of thermoplastic polyurethane for the upper. Compared with traditional Asian factories, the robot‑led approach cuts production time dramatically and reduces the shoe’s carbon footprint by about 75 %.
While most of On’s footwear is still manufactured in Asia, the company plans to open its first robot‑centric factory near a major market, eventually establishing facilities on every continent. Allemann argues that local production lowers shipping emissions, shortens lead times, and lets the brand respond faster to consumer trends.
High‑profile collaborations and retail expansion
On’s product line has expanded beyond running to tennis, outdoor training, and fashion‑forward apparel. A partnership with Roger Federer produced a tennis‑specific shoe that blends performance with the Swiss star’s style. Fashion collaborations have included luxury label LOEWE, actress Zendaya, and musicians FKA twigs and Burna Boy, reinforcing the brand’s “innovation‑first” identity.
Retail is another growth pillar. This month the company opened its fourth London store in Kensington, making the UK capital its largest retail hub. On now operates around 60 stores worldwide and plans to add up to 25 new locations annually, despite the rise of e‑commerce. The stores are designed as community spaces where running clubs meet, rather than pure point‑of‑sale venues.
Market positioning and challenges
On occupies the premium segment, with shoes ranging from £120 to £495, compared with Nike’s £60‑£290 range and Adidas’s £40‑£450 range. Although it holds roughly 1 % of the $450 billion global sportswear market, the brand claims about 20 % of the UK running‑shoe market and similar shares in parts of Europe. Growth has been especially strong in China, where sales have doubled year‑on‑year, and in the United States.
The company faces stiff competition from Nike (14 % market share) and Adidas (9 %). It also competes with emerging challengers such as Hoka, New Balance, and Onitsuka Tiger. A recent U.S. class‑action lawsuit alleged that On’s CloudTec shoes emit a squeaking noise; the firm declined to comment on ongoing legal matters.
Looking ahead to the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics
On’s research hub in Zurich is already developing products with the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics in mind. Allemann describes the company’s culture as an "explorer spirit" that encourages risk‑taking even as the workforce grows to 4,000 employees worldwide. The brand’s ambition is to keep innovating while scaling sustainably, positioning itself as a viable alternative to the entrenched giants of sports apparel.
With robot‑sprayed shoes, celebrity partnerships, and a retail strategy that emphasizes community, On is poised to expand its footprint and challenge the status quo of the sportswear industry.
Why it matters
On demonstrates how a mid‑size brand can leverage robotics and sustainability to disrupt a market dominated by Nike and Adidas, reshaping consumer expectations for performance footwear.
Key points
- On uses robot‑sprayed LightSpray technology to cut production time and carbon emissions
- Founded by ex‑McKinsey consultants and a former Ironman champion, the brand went public in 2021
- High‑profile collaborations with Roger Federer, LOEWE, Zendaya and others boost its premium image
- Retail expansion focuses on community‑centric stores, with a new London location opening in Kensington
- On aims to establish robot‑led factories on every continent to improve speed and sustainability
Frequently asked questions
What is On's LightSpray technology?
LightSpray is a robot‑controlled process that sprays a thin fibre onto a shoe upper, creating a seamless, lightweight construction in minutes and reducing the shoe’s carbon footprint by about 75 %.
How does On’s pricing compare with Nike and Adidas?
On’s shoes typically range from £120 to £495, placing them in the premium segment, whereas Nike’s prices span £60‑£290 and Adidas’s £40‑£450.
Where are On’s shoes manufactured?
Most On footwear is produced in traditional Asian factories, but the company is building its first robot‑led factory near a major market and plans to open facilities on each continent.
Has On faced any legal issues?
In 2023 a U.S. class‑action lawsuit claimed the brand’s CloudTec shoes make a noisy squeak; On has not commented on the ongoing case.
What are On’s growth targets for the near future?
On expects sales of nearly 3 billion Swiss francs this year, aims to sell 30 million pairs, and plans to open up to 25 new retail stores annually while expanding its robot‑manufacturing footprint.
